The Lost Stilt Shepherds of Southern France

Shepherding has never been the most glamorous or profitable profession. Long hours in all weather tending to animals who would rather not be bossed around are just a few of the issues sheep farmers deal with on a daily basis- even at the best of times. But, back in the day shepherds didn’t have half the tools that farmers today have. In the 1800s in Southern France the shepherds were contending with marshy land not fit for pasturing. The sheep were naturally suited to most terrains, but humans on the other hand, needed some help. So the shepherds came up with a quirky, but ingenious, solution: stilts.

The stilts came in handy when traveling across Landes de Gascogne in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of Southwestern France. Shepherds used the “big legs” (tchangues in French or échasses in the Gascon dialect) to traverse the slippery, wet, marshy areas. With few other resources, picking up and moving house was not an option. So these shepherds of modest means made due with the water-logged terrain they already lived near. The land was not settled since the soft, sandy soil which flooded often could not support houses.

The first recorded instances of these stilts come from the 1700s. Some of these stilts measured up to 5 feet tall, giving the shepherds an impressive height. This was probably an advantage when looking after the sheep as the shepherds could see longer distances. They also had an advantage over snakes, tall grasses, and small streams as they could cross them all deftly (if they were skillful at walking with the tchangues).

Many shepherds were practiced in using the stilts from a young age, making them extremely adept at standing for long periods or even running while on their stilts.

The stilt-walking shepherds (mostly men) were known as tchankats and they usually carried a pole with them to help them mount the stilts. This pole also acted as a support once they were on top, making them into a sort of tripod, which is a much more stable shape.

In photos from the late 1800s you’ll often see the shepherds carrying wool or yarn to process or even doing their knitting while they watch the sheep. The shepherds often are also wearing sheepskins or wool to keep warm and keep out the rain. For a sheepherder back then their entire lives revolved around sheep and wool so they wore their products proudly. To travel across the marshy land the stilts were also used by postmen and some tradesmen as well.

Towards the end of the 19th century the art of the tchangkats was dying out. Postcards, books, and souvenirs of these unique shepherds became fashionable- a fading glimpse into a dying way of life that was iconic to this region of France. But, it wasn’t modernization that ended this tradition.

In the middle of the 19th century the area was planted with maritime pine trees in a massive afforestation initiative forged by Napoleon III during his Second Empire reign. His decree that the marsh lands be planted was to stop the erosion of the sandy soil along the coast. The wetlands were first drained before being planted with these native trees.

Over the next century the pine trees grew to take over huge tracks of land, making it one of the largest forests in France. The draining of these watery lands made the tchangues obsolete. Currently these lands have been made into a regional park and protected wilderness area.

Today the art of stilt walking around Landes is reserved for parades, historical reenactments, and folk celebrations. Even though the tchangkats are no longer practicing their craft watching sheep in the marshy fields of Southwestern France the tradition is one that many people in the region still take immense pride in to this day.