Historical Clothing Terms Most People Today Won’t Know

In the old days, and throughout history, people wore a variety of clothing that is foreign to most people today. Fashions change and today we have things like indoor heating, cars, and sewing machines that have each had their effect on what we wear. Here are just a few old clothing terms that most people today don’t know the meaning of. See if you know some of them!

Brogues

Oxford were once the default casual show, with a short lacing section over the tongue to keep them on. They were flat, comfy, and could be made in a range of colors (though black and brown were the most common). Brogues are a type of Oxford shoe embellished with many holes on the top layer in patterns. They are also known as wingtips and were quite popular in the 1930s through the 1950s.

Chantilly Lace

Everyone knows the song, but how many folks know what Chantilly lace actually is? Unlike other types of lace, this one is a bobbin lace which takes a long tie to produce. It was typically created using black silk and in a straight shape, giving it a very distinct appearance suitable for lingerie, fans, parasols, and trimmings for clothing. If you thought it was white like Chantilly cream you are not alone, but a matte black silk was the preferred thread for this fine lace during the height of its popularity in the 1800s.

Cork Rump

This was a not-so-nice term for a bump pad or bustle. These apparatus filled out dresses with big skirts or long trains and gave the wearer whichever body shape was in fashion at the time. The largest ones were quite dramatic and these undergarments were the subject of many a scathing cartoon on the matter of frivolity in fashion and society.

Gaiters

These sleeves for the feet went over part of your shoe and up the leg, secured with lots of buttons. They were worn by members of the military, but also as sportswear. These leg covers were made of stiff canvas or leather and protected the wearer against snakebites.

Latchets

This style of shoe we think of as pilgrim shoes or Quaker shoes, but they are not defined by one group or even one era. These shoes were worn throughout the 17th and 18th centuries in both Europe and North America by many different classes. The top latch is where the name comes from and though we know the buckle as the main type, there were also latchets that closed with laces as well.

Leg of Mutton Sleeves

In the 1890s women’s fashion took a wild turn and these balloon sleeves, which had many names at the time, were all the rage. Huge quantities of fabric were needed to make the really large ones, which came to represent opulence with their size. But, even women from lower economic rungs got in on the fad which lasted into the early 1900s.

Pinafore

These aprons were originally worn to protect children’s clothing from stains in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The word means “on the front” as the often would tie in the back. However, some were more like full dresses. This style was also worn as a woman’s apron as well, often pinned on. Later on in the 1940s the style became a type of dress for women, though it has not been in fashion for many decades.

Spats

This term is short for spatterdash and refers to a protective shoe and ankle covering that was first worn in the mid-1800s. It was part of military uniforms to keep mud and debris out of soldiers’ shoes. Then in the 1910s and 1920s spats became very fashionable for men to show their wealth and sophistication by wearing spats with their suits. By the 1930s this trend had died out and today they are known mostly warn by welders and tradesmen for protection while they work.

Spencer

The Spencer jacket was cropped to fit the empire style, high waist dresses that were so popular in the early part of the 1800s. Most were short all the way around, though some had tails in the back more like a man’s coat. When worn in a contrasting fabric these jackets drew even more attention to the high waist and elongated the legs visually.

Stays

Today we might look at a set of stays and call it a corset, but this garment was not made in quite the same way. The French word estayer means to support, likely where the word originated. It’s called a set because there are two halves, one for each side of the body, laced in the middle and with straps that went over the shoulders (unlike corsets which are one piece). These were worn in the 17th and 18th centuries and were fully boned, which meant they were expensive to make and were more restrictive (i.e. supportive) than other foundation garments. The boning was so extreme that the bottom seam was split, indicating the extreme curves of the boning within.

Union Suit

This all-in-one undergarment added an extra layer of warmth and simplified dressing. The warmth and efficiency of these garments made them ideal for miners, farmers, and laborers who had to deal with the weather outdoors. There was a flap at the back for going to the bathroom, known as a drop seat (and a few other less savory names), and up to a dozen buttons from the neck to the crotch. These were made in flannel and later in knit cotton or other fabrics. When bicycles caught on these suits were marketed to riders to stave off chill.

Zoot Suit

The legacy of the zoot suit is, unfortunately, a bloody one. These oversized suits came into fashion in the 1940s. Jazz performers like Cab Calloway and Louis Jordan had made the flashy suits popular. The trend caught on particularly with young Hispanic men in Los Angeles and in 1943 racial tensions led to an explosion of violence against those wearing zoot suits, though thankfully no lives were lost. The suits had been in the media since wartime fabric rationing was at hand, and though a ban on the suits was approved in LA, it was never put into effect.

While the Zoot Suit Riots took place in LA, these suits were popular in many cities across the nation and were not isolated to the West Coast.