The Bold Men’s Fashion of the 1940s

The relaxed look was a welcome change of pace.

In the 1940s a wave of more relaxed clothing hit the world and the US in particular. Coiffed hairstyles often precluded a hat. 3-piece suits and upright coats were not in fashion for the average man. Things that were too rigid were seen as mainlyfor the older generations or for extremely formal situations.

More playful pieces were becoming the norm for men, though by today’s standards these would still be quite formal. Back then it was seen as a departure from decades of starched collars, top hats, pocket watches, and coats fitted so tightly around the shoulders that one had no choice but to stand up straight.

Joe Marsala with Other Musicians 1948
Via: William P. Gottlieb/Library of Congress

Fun patterns, rayon shirts, and generally more comfortable clothing was in style for daily wear. However, for much of the decade many men wore their military uniforms. Some of these clothing trends even made it into the dress of the armed forces!

Big Overcoats

The 1940s was the decade of the big overcoat. They were long, cut wide, with plenty of space in the shoulders. The wide collars meant that they could be flipped up to keep out the chill. The silhouette of these coats cast as men walked down the street is utterly unique to the period. They were a hallmark of 1940s films, epitomized by stars like Humphrey Bogart.

Oversized Coat on Man 1942
Via: Arthur S. Siegel/Library of Congress

Wide Collars

Super wide collars were common and they were worn open at the top for casual looks. This was before t-shirts made their way into everyday wear, so this a close second in terms of comfort.

1940s Publicity Photo of Frank Sinatra
1940s publicity photo of Frank Sinatra. Via: MGM/Wiki Commons

2-tone Sweaters

These sweaters created a graphic look by defining areas of the body in contrasting colors. Those with extremely crafty family members could even have their sweaters made to measure. 2-tone rayon shirts were also in style during the decade.

Trio at a Table 1940s
Via: Arthur Rothstein/Library of Congress

Zoot Suits

These controversial suits were generously cut to use more fabric, taking that relaxed look to an extreme. It was a polarizing style that was worn on the coasts, down in Florida, and in most major cities. Some argued that fabric should be rationed, others argued the young men should be in uniform. The controversy caused race riots in LA in 1943 that made the suits infamous in US fashion history.

1943 Zoot Suit Pants Daytona College Campus
Via: Gordon Parks/Library of Congress

Wide Neck Ties

To go with the wide collars, wide shoulders, and oversized pants, men also wore wide neckties. By the 1950s the skinny tie would take over. This era had plenty of casual looks, but most men still wore ties for anything remotely dressy or formal. Most office jobs required a tie, as did jobs we might not consider business dress for today like delivery men, pharmacists, and grocers. Ties could came in bold patterns or fun scenes to reflect the more lighthearted designs of the time.

1942 Dance Scene
Via: Marjory Collins/Library of Congress

Pin Stripe Suits

One common pattern for men’s suits was the pinstripe pattern. In tones of grey this look could be subtle, but in true 1940s style many men wore this in black or navy with white stripes to really emphasize the look.

1942 Mens Tailor Post Card Ad
Via: Newberry Library/Internet Archive

Cuffed Jeans

Jeans as work wear had long been a trend and by the 1950s folks would start wearing them as every day pants. In the 1940s even they utilitarian pants got wide cuffs at the bottom, a style that would be seen in other styles of pants as well.

1941 Wards Catalog Mens Cuffed Jeans
Via: Montgomery Ward/Internet Archive

Pork Pie Hats

A holdover from the 1920s and 1930s, many men in the 1940s were still wearing pork pie hats. These slim hats combined elements of the boater and the fedora for a practical hat. Some men wore these hats with zoot suits. By the 1950s the fedora had overtaken the pork pie hat in popularity.

Buster Keaton Performing on the Radio in 1941
Bust Keaton doing a radio spot in 1941. Via: Richard Merrill/Yankee Radio Network/Wiki Commons
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